It was in the middle of the heatwave of 2003 (where 14,000 people died in France). I remember the bus leaving me stranded a little distance from the town gates. I also remember that I couldn't work out whether there would be a bus going back that day that could take me to my hotel in Colmar, but that I had set off nervously that morning regardless.
The town, near the german border and forming part of Vauban's magnificent forts that surround France, was called Neuf Brisach. It was deserted, except for a few people hiding in the intense shadows below the trees of the main square. Midday struck, so the bakery was shut and wouldn't open for until 3:30pm - I would have to go hungry.
Wide, straight streets led me to the Vauban Museum, which was only open on Wednesdays and hence was also shut. So, despite it being the hottest time of the day, I decided to do the tour of the moat. Someone had warned me there were snakes so I stamped around furiously but I think it was too hot even for them. Instead, I spotted some deer and a Japanese tourist, no doubt having strayed too far from Ronchamp (the tourist, not the deer).On re-entering the town an old man came up to me and started chatting. He asked where I was from and when I answered Australia he acted as thought this was the most amazing event of his life - a genuine Australian, here talking to him! As we parted, he told me to check out one of the southern towers that had an artwork in it (though I can't remember the artwork, so it was obviously stunning).
Back in the square, the bakery was open and so was tourist info. They also weren't clear about the buses but suddenly one appeared, not existing on any of the timetables, and the offered to take me back to Colmar. I waved the sleepy fort-town goodbye.
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