Tuesday, 15 November 2011

bars in paris


more drinks, originally uploaded by julienpaul.

The North-east

The Kitch Bar
10, rue Oberkampf, 75011
metro: Oberkampf
My favourite bar in Paris, this lounge-room sized bar is a place where if you don’t know everyone’s names on arrival, you will before too long. This goes for English speakers too, I have had many a bilingual conversation here. It’s specialities are cocktails and it is worth trying out the Shrek (think mint slurpey), the nesbite (an long island iced tea, plus two alcohols), or the choufleur (a whipped cream caramel shot). Not a place to come for standard American-style cocktails though (stay away from the bloody mary).


Ethnika cafe
127 Rue Saint-Maur, 75011
Metro : parmentier
3.50 – 4.50 euro cocktails and flavoured rum shots (where the rum has been sitting in huge glasses with figs, honey, carob, for 12 hours) are the draw cards to this crowded bar, though the downstairs area often has djs. The entire stretch of bars around this one offer a range of cheap drinks and fun places to try out. Oh, and remember to check out the toilet here..


Le Lèche-vin
13, rue Daval, 75011
metro : bastille
A bar full of catholic iconography, coupled with the most obscene toilets on earth. The pope will never bless this place.


Ave Maria
1, Rue Jacquard , 75011 Paris
metro: parmentier or oberkampf
Similiar to the Lèche-vin, this is a bar/restaurant with a religious feel, though this one embraces all faiths. The food is great, though pricey, with some interesting “fusion” dishes. Further up the hill, past parmentier (and around the Ethnika café) there are hundreds of small bars for you to also try out.


Le 50
50 Rue de Lancry , 75011
Metro : jacques bonsergent
A bit in the same style as the Kitch, but this place also has good wine, cheese plates, ginger flavoured beer and a series of rooms at the back for when it gets busy. It draws in a very diverse crowd (from 18 to 80) and each different barman has different taste in music.


The Marais

The Lizard Lounge
18 rue Bourg Tibourg 75004
metro: hotel de ville or St Paul
Owned by some English speakers, this one does tend to be a bit of an ex-pat or tourist haunt, but it has a nice vibe, has a mezzanine with board games, a downstairs bar, and some good standard cocktails.


Les étages
35 rue Vieille du Temple, 75004
metro: hotel de ville or St Paul
The barmen and women of this establishment stepped straight out of a world war II French resistance movie and spend more time posing than actually serving drinks, but that’s ok. Famous for strawberry mojitos.


L'Art Brut Bistrot ‎
78 Rue Quincampoix
metro: chatelet or rambuteau
One of my favourite wine bars in the centre of paris. It’s got a good selection and is always bustling.

Le Connétable ‎
55 Rue Archives
75003 Paris, France
metro: rambuteau or arts et metiers
It is a bar that never shuts, slowly collecting the dregs and remains of the night, usually a swarm of desperate, smoking men. It is part tavern, part someone’s home, you can smoke on the top floor, and the owners dogs are usually sitting around.

Le Duplex ‎
25 Rue Michel le Comte
75003 Paris, France
metro: rambuteau or arts et metiers
The gay version of the Connétable, it also shuts late (around 5am), and is designed to give you very strong cocktails, then set you up on the one long table where someone will come and say hi to you within a few minutes.

Les Souffleurs ‎
7 Rue Verrerie
75004 Paris, France
My new favourite gay bar, with friendly bar men, good music and a downstairs with strange video projections and djs. A slightly alternative crowd, the type of people who will end up at the Duplex at 2am (if they haven’t picked up).

More to come soon!

Saturday, 25 June 2011

and so it is the middle of summer...


sunset while leaving, originally uploaded by julienpaul.

Sunset in London: 9:21 pm
Sunset in Paris: 9:58 pm
Sunset in Oslo..... 10:43 pm :)

Sunday, 30 January 2011

welcome to nw3


fine food in the east end, originally uploaded by julienpaul.

So, what do you think of London so far? How can I think of London, when my room, my job and the path between these things are different enough that I haven’t even had a though about which city I am in.

Gone is my spacious room in a small apartment, exchanged for a tiny room in an enormous apartment. Farwell my empty nights, now re-immersed in house share and long bottles of wine. My groceries must fit into one shelf in the fridge and one shelf in the cupboard, I should probably not play music at full blast at 3 am, and I probably shouldn’t let that dirty dish sit there over night.

Goodbye the piling of bodies upon bodies, of lives against lives that is the Parisian apartment house, the Parisian street, the Parisian world. Hello long empty streets, half hour tube rides, listening to my ipod in the dark and the rain, bars being closed at 11, supermarkets open on Sundays.

I jumped from years of three to five people firms to a firm that has over one hundred in London alone, and has another three offices worldwide. In Paris coats went up on the rickety coat rack, the toilet had been leaking for months, there was no cleaner or secretary, I went out to buy a kettle, coffee machine and desk light for the office and on certain days I needed to work on a computer brought from home. Hell, I didn’t have a contract for months on end. Hello fully equipped kitchens with dining rooms where everyone eats in canteen style, hello a thirty person admin team, a sixty page office manual, projects in every country on earth, project teams twice the size of my former firms. Oh, the joys of time sheets.

As to London? How do we experience a city? Is it what it looks like, how we can go out, how we shop, who we meet, how we move around, the parks, the galleries, the bars? I think London is not a city that reveals itself quickly. Here, with the sun setting at four and constant rain, it is hard to find it pretty. And Soho on a Friday night, with its mix of overcrowding (it’s like Chatelet on a Friday night, and why would I go there?) and bars closing really early is a frustrating wonder. I am waiting for the sun to set later, to be able to walk and walk, or maybe buy a bike. This city is rough and raw and not at all easy, but already I love the difference between where I live (West Hampstead) and where I work (Waterloo). I like that in my firm only 10 people are British and 90 are foreigners and that every European language can be heard. I don’t like that the 10 British members include most of the directors, but that’s another story.

I am still in that horrible moment where I can’t help but constantly compare things to Paris. I will need to give London a chance to show me a different way of living, just as Paris showed me an entirely different way of living to Sydney.

Now, if you will leave me, Ken gave me a copy of Down and out in Paris and London and I might just be reading it with a smile on my face.

Thursday, 13 January 2011

a night with dezeen I



While looking up some of the old articles on Dezeen I stumbled upon the above project for lamp clothing for women by French photographer and stylist Marianne Maric and this almost Miyakazi like design for a shale shaped hot air balloon hotel called Manned cloud.



Dezeen is one of my morning-read-while-drinking-coffee sites, along with Questionable Content, XKCD and Cat and Girl (see links to the right). A great place to waste time.

Wednesday, 12 January 2011

que je change de cap, de capitale

The office was still bustling while I started packing up. It was actually happening: in the middle of a huge competition I was going to be able to keep my long planned four day weekend to London to see the National and Jonsi. There had been nights of stress when I was sure my bosses would tell me it just wasn’t possible as there was too much work to do, but this once things were going to work out ok.
I logged onto gmail to send myself a few files just in case I had some time to work on them on the Eurostar and noticed an email in my inbox. I opened it and read it.

“Um.” I said to the two workmates at my table. “David Chipperfield’s office just asked if I was in London this weekend for an interview.”

“That’s great” Guillaume said, looking up from his work. “Isn’t it?”

“Um. Well. Yeah.” I had sent off the CV to David Chipperfield’s office three months earlier and it had somewhat been forgotten amongst the 80 or so CVs I had sent.

The irony was that I had been leaving work early to try and pass by my gym and sign up for a years subscription while the rates were still cheap. I was so close to accepting staying in Paris for at least another year.

So, I hesitated, and went to meet up with Nat next to the canal instead. The wine was excellent, and I was euphoric due to the prospect of seeing Jonsi and the National (and Nat’s fine company, obviously). Somehow the whole job interview business just seemed like a surreal addition. Nat and I finished off a bottle each, had a wonderful meal, and the next morning I hopped on the Eurostar.

Well, the weekend was wonderful; Jonsi was beautiful and the National made me feel warm and fuzzy for weeks after. And on that rainy Monday when London was having a transport strike I did two interviews and got the job. The starting date was going to be almost exactly one year after quitting my last long term job.

The next month passed by in a snowy gloom. Work got tough, the competition deadline approached. As usual though, friend’s and alcohol made things bearable. Now that I knew I was going to leave Paris my time left seemed too short. Everything was already seeping into nostalgia: will this be my final trip to the Buttes Chaumont? Will this be my final Shrek at the Kitsch? Soulwaxmas at La Villette, the insane end of year drinks with my work where I still don’t know how I got home (and I am sure I didn’t pay for any of my drinks, but the bar owner took the same metro home as me and he didn’t mention anything, so it’s all ok).

Paris also continued to show me its quirks:

While taking the metro home late one night a young man hopped on at the station after mine and started a familiar spiel: “hello, my name is Jean, I’m 25 and recently I lost my job and my house. If you have a ticket rest, or...”

Meanwhile, a muttering could be heard from the other end of the carriage: “I don’t have a house, I don’t have any money, if you could please...” A much older man, shabbily dressed, completely drunk, was giving the same speech.

The younger man stopped and shook his head. “I don’t believe this. Can’t you see I am talking?” He said to the older man. The older man seemed confused. “This is my carriage, go away, go home, everyone can see you are drunk”.

People were both laughing and a little uncomfortable that the younger man seemed to be so aggressive to the older. The young man apologised to everyone, and then pulled the older man off the train with him at the next station.

A few days later Ray and I would be walking around the gare St Lazarre, freezing to death, and wanting a tea. Ray stared at the prices in horror: 5 euros 20 for a tea? I tried to explain that it was normal for this area, but that didn’t seem to make things better for him. We found a place that sold a pot of tea bag tea for 4 euros 20, and a demi of beer for 4 euros; at least it would take us out of the cold.

I was in mid sip of my beer when I noticed a mouse running around the neighbouring table. I was somewhere between amused and a little worried. I called out to the “garcon” and he shrugged, said “so what”, and told me that the mouse was very well behaved.

When I came back from new years in Cologne I found myself with two days to get my stuff together for London, and everything started moving so quickly. I hopped on a train, and suddenly I now lived in London. Paris had slipped away without me really realising, and the whole move is still only slowly sinking in.

Tuesday, 31 August 2010

waiting for arcade fire


bracelets x 3, originally uploaded by julienpaul.

17h57 I am approaching the main stage of Rock en Seine, always with no news from Josh. I note a line of people slicing through the crowd and attach myself to the back of them, receiving a piggy back the front of the sound tent. There the line dissolves and I get stuck between a guy with a Franz Ferdinand t-shirt and his girlfriend, and a really short guy and his even shorter girlfriend.

18h07 Beirut starts. Mr Franz’s girlfriend asks “er, did you know that they were so.. well.. like this?” Mr Franz shakes his head. “Well, we will stay till the end, and then we should try to move forward for a good spot for the Ting Tings”.

I tense up. They are possible competition. Are they only here for the Ting Tings, meaning they will leave before Arcade Fire? Or is this an indication that everyone is going to wait around for the next four hours, like me?

18h15 Josh still hasn’t arrived, and this is the band he wanted to see. I’m trying to enjoy the ukulele playing. It is mighty fine ukulele playing.

18h20 A rather bouncy tall Frenchman jumps through the crowd. Mr Shorty and his girlfriend are dancing to Beirut and Mr Bouncy says “you are both sooooooooo cute!” They get embarrassed and stop, but he forces them to continue. He sees his friends just ahead and jumps over to them and hugs them.

18h22 Mr Bouncy is now standing directly in front of Mr Shorty and his even shorter girlfriend. He notices this, and turns around, saying “to the right, or to the left?” Mr Shorty is confused.

“Well, should I stay to the left,” Bouncy continues, “and u can look past me to the right, or vice versa?”

“Left.” Shorty replies. Bouncy goes to the left, and is still blocking them.

“Er, not right.” Bouncy goes to the right, allowing Shorty to see but blocking Shortys girlfriend’s view. Meanwhile, Bouncy has pulled out a wine bladder from his bag and is offering wine to Shorty, then to his girlfriend. He is complaining about how horrible the wine is, and that he had bought the exact same wine yesterday and it was good. But hell, it’s cheap, so he doesn’t care too much.

Josh still hasn’t arrived.

18h28 Josh calls. “Can you wave, so I can see where you are?” He asks.

I wave.

“I can’t see you…” he says.

Why are festivals just a constant reminder of how short I am? I jump up and down waving and eventually he can see me.

18h34 Josh arrives, just as Mr Bouncy has continued offering wine to everyone, then forced Shorty’s girlfriend to stand in front of him. At around this time, a bunch of what looks like 14 years olds hop by in a line, forcing their way through the crowd quite violently, obviously utterly drunk.

“Fuck, they are kids” I say. Josh tries to hear. “Did you say they were dicks?” he asks.

18h50 Beirut ends. CHAOS IS EVERYWHERE. We drive forward, along with Mr Frandz and his girlfriend, while others are racing away from the stage to god knows what. We managed to get to the metal central part (for those of you who have been to Rock en Seine, well, you know what I mean.) We realise we are roughly at the fourth row or so, and we manage to get enough room to sit. The waiting begins.

19h10 I decide to head off to get us food, water, alcohol and do a toilet break. Sadly it seems everyone else has decided to do exact the same thing. I stare at the hour long queues with fear.

19h25 Josh calls, saying he won’t be able to keep my spot for very much longer.. the crowd is very pushy! I have to return, with only water. We will have to manage for the rest of the night foodless and without alcohol.

19h35 wait, wait, wait.

19h40 people start standing up on the edges, and we, of the comfortably seated on the metal part, refuse. A wide, jovial Frenchman announces to everyone in a booming voice “People! You need not stand! Do not feel obliged to conform to the tyranny of the standing! For seated, we have the power…” he continues like this for about a minute, and ends to a round of applause. A young guy comes over and says “what is your name, I want to congratulate you on your speech.” The jovial guy stands up to shake the young man’s hand, and the whole crowd boos, calling him a hypocrite. He is so drunk he can’t understand why everyone is booing.

19h50 The Ting Tings start just as the Dicks, I mean Kids, come slicing through the crowd, up to the front next to us.

19h55 The tallest Dick is putting out his cigarette in the hair of the shortest Dick. Mr Jovial tries to stop them, saying short Dick has such wonderful, wonderful hair and that it was a tragedy to burn it.

20h00 Tall Dick picks up short Dick and puts him on his shoulders. The remaining group of Dicks start undressing short Dick, who is so out of it, he barely notices.

20h10 Everywhere around us is chaos. We seem to be in a calm group of about 10 people surrounded by a raging, soaring mosh pit. People keep on crowd surfing over us – one hits josh in the head when he isn’t looking – but, for now, we are safe. We seem to have found ourselves in the “jump up and down” crowd, rather than the “run at the person next to you” crowd. As it turns out, all of the people in the calm group would turn out to be Arcade Fire fans…

20h25 The Ting Tings are really warming up, and though I try to keep the calm people surrounding me (they must have thought I was very kind, often allowing people in front of me, but really, I was maintaining a buffer of people I had singled out as being less violent), a French couple come barging through and it’s all over: “Hey, if we can’t go mad for the Ting Tings, then we can never go mad”, they tell me. The calm collapses.. everything moves in every direction and it is a joyful madness, with lots of elbows hitting heads and feet kicking shins.

20h40 A particularly mad Frenchman appears next to me and I say a bit too loudly “oh oh”. He hears me and says “Hey, all this mad bouncing about is the best way to get to the front!” When he realizes he can’t actually get any further, he pulls himself up and crowd surfs to the very front.

20h50 The Ting Tings end. No one is leaving from around where we are. Josh leaves for a toilet break and everyone tries to sit, but there isn’t enough room. We end up sitting on each other.

21h05 The two girls next to me are trying to sing Arcade Fire songs, but can’t remember parts. I stop myself from helping, and continue reading American Psycho.

21h15 There is a great vibe in the crowd. The girl next to me starts chatting to me, saying how she can’t understand how I can read in all of the madness. When Josh returns the crowd helps him step over them, making small foot holes so he can reach me.

21h40 There is less and less space. The tension is rising. It is now dark, and we watch as props appear on stage: floodlights, a billboard, a painted screen depicting a highway. People start cheering for every technician who walks on, and starts singing in semi unison “wake up”. The guy next to me REALLY can’t sing.

22h00 The stage goes dark, the opening to “the suburbs” begins, and then, as the seven appear on stage, unexpectedly turns into “Ready to start”. I almost die of excitement and yell at Josh “It’s the one I really like!” He nods. All around me people are singing along. Arcade Fire achieves again what I witnessed in 2007: the biggest Karaoke I have ever seen.

The concert continues with beautiful numbers from all three albums. The crowd favourite “No cars go” gets everyone singing and jumping, while “Ocean of Noise” is spectacular, borrowing two trumpet players from Beirut.

The great thing is: everyone seems to be short. I can actually see! My joy is slightly spoilt by a rather grumpy old man to my left who is standing with his elbows jutting out defensively, sticking into the soft of my back. It gets so annoying that I ask him to move them, but he replies that it is my fault for moving about to the music. His glare shows that he has judged me as being a… *gasp* hooligan.

22h55 The concert is spectacular. I don’t know if it is because I know The Suburbs better than any other album, or if it’s the fact that they are doing weird and wonderful things to the old songs they are playing, but it feels better than last time. I am trying to work out whether I could call it “my best concert ever”, kicking Sigur Ros and Radiohead off their thrones, when it starts to sprinkle. Then to rain. Then to pour.

Arcade fire play for one song under the torrential rains and, due to the direction of the wind, end up being utterly soaked. The technicians come out at the end of the song and say they have to get off stage. Tarpaulins come out while the audience puts on raincoats and jumpers. The old man, now a little behind me, drops a packet of chewing gum as he is putting on his raincoat. I bend down and pick it up and give it to him. His eyes go wide. I think this might be the equivalent of that moment where Jean Valjean turns Javerts moral order on its head. Or maybe not. Either way, the old guy then acts really nice to both Josh and I.

23h05 The rain continues.

23h10 Arcade fire comes running out and with a minimal amount of instruments and faltering props and video projects, play Wake up, to which we all, of course, sing and rejoice. The spotlights illuminate the rain as it falls, and it is an utterly breathtaking experience.

23h15 Arcade Fire bows to the cheering crowd before throwing their drum sticks. The lead singer comes running up to directly in front of where I am. I try to reach out and touch him but he is just a bit too far. Almost, amost…

23h17 The rain stops. About 5 minutes too late.

23h20 It becomes somewhat clear that it is over, but even when technicians make official announcements telling everyone to go home, many remain. People are divided between cheering, slightly angry demands for more, and conversations on the lines of “well, what we did see was amazing”. Josh and I leave and make our way to the metro utterly drenched.

Rock en Seine ends for 2010.

[side note, this still holds very true: http://www.questionablecontent.net/view.php?comic=16 ]

Thursday, 26 August 2010

only a spectator (at the gay games)


gone bouldering, originally uploaded by julienpaul.

When my friend Steve introduced the concept of the Gay Games to me I think I laughed hard and for quite a while. Was it Gay only? Did they test you on arrival with a "gay test", just to make sure you weren't cheating? If you win, can you then say you are the fastest... gay male runner in the world? Are the Olympics heterosexual only?

Well, it was a good excuse to get to meet Steve and to see Cologne (and Zumthor's St Kolumba museum). So I said: what the hell, I'm going.

The one long, intense day of competition that I had the opportunity to witness managed to quieten me a little. I had never seen a rock climbing competition and for someone who suffers from vertigo, I think I had to steady myself a little on arrival when I saw just how tall the walls were.

The intense concentration, the physical strength and dexterity needed... I was just a little in awe. This was not some pansy's competition.

The tone for the competition managed to be both serious - the courses were damn hard - and light-hearted. Everyone chatted between events, there were loud rounds of applause between competitors and a general sense of comradeship.

So, I was convinced. The Gay games were not just there for a laugh, for a the circuit parties, a big fuck fest as you may. It was about serious sportsmanship and solidarity between homosexuals and friends/supporters of homosexuals.

Then the rock climbing event ended.

And we went to see the ballroom dancing and were horrified and amused by the costumes. The Chess and Bridge competitions were also in full swing as well. Oh, and then the circuit parties began. And then the fu... anyways.

The vibe in Cologne was spectacular. Temporary stages had been set up everywhere with DJs and concerts, and beer was pouring continuously. It felt like someone's huge house party, and I was happy to have been invited. I had not yet seen a German city in summer and it was a pleasant change to the grey, rainy memories of my visits in October and January to Berlin and Munich.

So, awesome week, and congrats to Steve, Nick and Robert for their truck loads of medals.


bronze and.. bronze.. and silver!, originally uploaded by julienpaul.

PS more photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/darkcorners/sets/72157624717450128/